The Life of the Land is Perpetuated in Righteousness
We spent a week in Kauai and Big Island in early April 2009.
Our trip was originally planned last year, but due to ATA, Aloha airlines going kaput the same week, we postponed the trip. Our trip had started with a desire to check out the volcanoes, and evolved from there. We ended up spending 5 nights in Kauai and 3 nights in Big Island. Turned out to be not the best timing, it seemed to rain every day we were there - one of the rainiest spell in recent years for Hawaii.
Kauai - We discovered lush greenery there. We were staying in the northern part of the island Princeville - at the Westin. The best beaches are a short drive from the hotel and the area is not at all commercial. But it does tend to get a lot more rain than the southern portion.
We set out to do usual suspects - the island is not too expansive and you can drive end to end within a few hours. The west coast is a bit rugged and the only way to check it out is via a helicopter or boat ride. The beaches were not too enjoyable due to the cloudy weather, but it was a an experience indeed to feel the gentle showers with the sun streaming down hard.
Waimea Canyon is spectacular - where we bumped into Kanye West, who was doing a commercial shoot. Mount Wai-'ale'ale here has up to 350 rainy days annually. Rainbow sightings are inevitable while trekking around Waimea Canyon. We couldn't help reminiscing the Grand Canyon.
Click on pictures to enlargeWe were originally slated to be in the Poipu beach area, but settled on the Princeville. Poipu seems to be a nice area, lots of resorts. This is right within the Spouting Horn vicinity. That is worth checking out... we got a kick out of this kid scaring everyone with "The monster is very angry" in a scary hushed tone. We had urges to check out the Na Pali Coast - after we had glimpsed it from one of the lookout points But the only way to navigate through is via a helicopter ride or boat ride. The cloudy cool weather didn't let us muster the enthusiasm for it.
There are many traditional Hawaiian sacred places called HEIAUS where important historic events, such as human sacrifices, births of kings and others major events have occured. Today, Hawaiians consider these places a very important part of their culture and they show respect when they visit these locations. We tried to be cognizant of this while we visited such sacred place in Hawaii. The area by Opaeka'a falls (by Wailua river) is one such area. The falls - Wailua and Opaeka'a are nothing spectacular though and can be skipped.
Poliahu HeiauAcross Opaekaa Falls and overlooking the Wailua Rives lies the Poliahu Heiau. It is believed to be a luakini heiau or a sacrificial temple. The stone walls and paved floors make for quite an impressive sight.
We particularly enjoyed the Kauai's Hindu Monastery. - right past Opaeka'a Falls. The daily worship starts at 9AM and it is quite unlike a regular Hindu worship. It was quite fascinating, we came upon the Rudraksha forest at the http://www.himalayanacadem
The lighthouse by the Princeville area is definitely worth checking out. You can experience some whale sightings as also some exotic rare birds .
Kauai is known for its rich landscape, and movie shootings too. There are tours organized around these special spots....locations where Jurassic Park, Blue Hawaii, Six Days Seven nights, Lilo and Stitch, Honeymoon in Vegas amongst many others have been shot.
Do not forget to check out Kaua'i Granola SUGAR CANE Snax store in the town of Waimea. We enjoyed the shaved ice too, particularly in the town of Hanalei. This turned out to be a no pressure, laid back vacation.
BIG ISLAND
As our plane taxied into the runway, the sharp contrast between Kauai and Big Island was readily apparent. Big Island is more desolate, lot of volcanic remnants around, burnt landscape. We flew into Kona and flew out of the Hilo side, which makes it lot more efficient.
Big Island is the largest of all the Hawaiian island, most recent and is still settling down. You have volcanic activity, hurricanes, tsunami - you name it.
We ended up renting a condo in Kona - a few miles away from the heart of Kona - Kona Bali Kai. Friends of ours had rented it a few months earlier and it was absolutely the right choice for a single night. The furniture is a tad dated, but nothing beats the sound of the waves crashing into the rocks - the beach is just a drop from the balcony. The beach is a accessible by all the locals, which does not make a good site at times. While having dinner in town, we ended up meeting this couple who were originally from Los Gatos, now retired in Kona. They were excited to find someone from their home town, got nostalgic a tad and readily offered up some wonderful travel tips. They had bought their place in 1988 and rented it out, and eventually moved out there in early 2000. They are right on the hills off Kona and we later discovered (at the Volcano National Park ranger talk) that an eruption of Mauna Kea is due anytime now. The oldest volcanoes are on the northern part of the island and the youngest more turbulent ones are in the southern part, the infamous Goddess Pele, around the Kilauea Caldera.
We had an uneventful night in Kona and we proceeded the next day to the Volcano National Forest area - which will pretty much take up the whole day, considering all the stops on the way. We stopped enroute at the Puuhonua O Honaunau National Historical Park, which is definitely worth a visit. The historical park preserves the site where, up until the early 19th century, Hawaiians who broke a kapu or one of the ancient laws against the gods could avoid certain death by fleeing to this place of refuge or "puʻuhonua". The offender would be absolved by a priest and freed to leave. Defeated warriors and non-combatants could also find refuge here during times of battle. The grounds just outside the Great Wall that encloses the puʻuhonua were home to several generations of powerful chiefs.
The rental car agreement is picky and does not let you drive on certain roads. Thus, we could not drive on Saddle Road - perhaps renting a 4WD might have helped. We did end up driving on South Point Road to get to the southernmost point of the 50 states, for the "Been there, done that" check mark. We missed out on seeing Mauna Loa due to the cloudy weather and we missed out on Mauna Kea also, partially due to the short span of our stay. Perhaps, Kona and Hilo can be avoided altogether in retrospect to free up some time for the other stuff. If you intend going to Mauna Kea, you have the option to drive up all the way to 13,000 ft, so ensure that you do your homework prior to getting up there.
Right outside the Volcano National Park area, we spent two nights at the Kileau Lodge. We were given the option to rent a house (Pia Mona house) which is owned by the owners of Kileau Lodge, which was just perfect. Every single detail has been thought of, including a towel warmer rack in every bathroom, creamer in the fridge, a nice hot tub ready to use, board games, hand picked reading material, you name it. We found many interesting books stacked here and one of them was just based upon the bad luck (letters from folks returning rocks they had 'stolen') that people had encountered after picking up a volcanic rock and taking it back home. Goddess Pele ain't too pleased about it and you will be cursed!
As you walk around in the Volcano National Park, you will find ground surrounded with lava rocks forming a circle. You should never enter a heiau or climb over the lava rocks because this will disturb the spirits. It is said that this action will cause bad luck for the person who dared to enter it. Also, there is a fine of $10,000 for people who disregard these rules and steal or damage parts or the surrounding areas of a Hawaiian sacred site.
A good idea when visiting a Hawaiian sacred place is to bring a small gift, such as a lei, a fruit, nuts or something else. Bringing a gift to the spirits is an unwritten rule and we did see gifts at these sacred place. Sit down in silence and experience it!
Puu Loa Petroglyphs - Location: Chain of Craters Rd., Mile Marker 16, Volcano. Meaning "Long Hill," Puu Loa is considered to be sacred grounds among Hawaiians where fathers go and leave their infants’ umbilical cords to wish long life for their children. This vast petroglyph field can be reached by hiking from the Chain of Craters Road. That was a nice walk - 1.2 miles from the road. This particular field consists of over 15,000 individual petroglyph images that have been scratched and pecked into the hard pahoehoe surface.
Within the park, the Lava Tubes and the Devastation trail will definitely be of interest. Do not forget to check out the movie in the visitor center, prior to embarking out.
We took the night drive to Kalapana to see Gooddess Pele upclose, which is a good 30 mile drive from the heart of Volcano National Park.... and it wasn't worth it.... We just saw a faint glow from a distance.
On the drive to the airport we went through the town of Hilo and spent a couple hours going through the scenic route in the town. Akaka Falls can be avoided also. The town is frankly a bit scary for some reason and you are better off avoiding it altogether.
This is a quick summary. Hope to complete this and add further details to this.
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What's new on Hawaiian Islands
Posted: 09/25/2009 12:00:00 PM PDT
What's new on the Hawaiian Islands this year? Here's a small sample of hotel updates, as provided by the Hawaiian Visitors and Convention Bureau:
href="http://www.HonuaKaiMaui.com">www.HonuaKaiMaui.com.™...
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Here's a small sample of new activities and tours, as provided by the HVCB:
To see more new things on the islands, visit www.VisitHawaii.com.
Exploring the Big Island: From Captain Cook to active volcanoes
By Tony Hicks
Contra Costa Times
Posted: 09/25/2009 12:00:00 PM PDT
Updated: 09/25/2009 04:38:25 PM PDT
We motored the Zodiac into Kealakekua Bay around noon, the sun gleaming off what I'd been looking for: The Captain Cook monument, its ivory surface and vertical shape sharply contrasting the green foliage background.
It marks the spot on the Big Island where one of the world's great explorers, Captain James Cook, met the initially welcoming Hawaiian people in 1779 — the first encounter between Hawaiians and the Western world. It began a long, often rocky relationship that more than a century later resulted in American rule of Hawaii and a two-part "Brady Bunch" episode featuring Vincent Price.
It's also where the natives killed Cook rather brutally after a disagreement over a boat.
But never mind
the ugliness. Because the bay is one of the best snorkeling spots on the island (only minutes later I'd be scrambling to see a manta ray disappearing into the depths), the area was relatively full of people.
The Cook monument is no more than a square encompassing about 400 square feet and accessible on land by a rugged trail. It also is said to be the only non-embassy in the United States that sits on land owned by the British government.
Well, that did it. My ancestry is British. I've never actually been there, but my brand new third-degree sunburn assured me that, at the very least, my skin was very British. I asked the boss of our Sea Quest tour boat, the very entertaining Captain Liam Powers, how we would get the boat to
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shore.
"We don't," he said, adding that doing so would destroy the pristine coral.
"Can I swim there?" I asked.
"No."
"Wade?"
"No."
"But I'm kind of British," I pleaded.
Powers just smiled. Maybe the British thing doesn't go so far in Hawaii anymore.
That was the only thing that didn't work on our seven-day adventure exploring the Big Island. My wife and I experienced probably the best of our half dozen-plus Hawaiian trips.
Strong start
While autumn on the mainland may not scream vacation, it makes perfect sense in Hawaii. The weather is warm and mostly mild. The prices are relatively reasonable. There's far less waiting for that restaurant table facing the sunset and far more room for give-and-take with tour guides. And with school back in session, you have fewer children in the way when gazing into a volcano.
You need at least a week to properly see the Big Island, the biggest in the Hawaiian chain. We traveled from Kailua Kona around the southern tip to Hilo in the east, then around the northern tip to the resort area of Waikoloa. The pace was constantly brisk.
The Sea Quest snorkeling tour was the best of four Hawaii snorkeling trips I've taken. It covered three sites in five hours, including the aforementioned Kealakekua Bay and Honaunau Bay, near the historic Place of Refuge. The latter is where we encountered a 5-foot white tip reef shark, casually swimming toward us near a coral wall. The water was so clear, it felt like we were swimming in the fish tunnel at an aquarium.
With only minutes left on the trip, Captain Powers found a pod of spinner dolphins, which he estimated at 100 strong. A number of babies were learning to jump and spin like their mothers. One, Powers estimated, was only days old.
The Place of Refuge itself lies on what was royal grounds in Kona, with a handful of thatched buildings, guarded by giant tikis (for Hunter S. Thompson fans, this was where he allegedly hid at the end of "The Curse of Lono"). A massive, 16th century stone wall survives, ensconcing the area considered a sanctuary for ancient Hawaiians. It's also one of the best sea turtle viewing sites in Kona. My wife almost stepped on one.
Lovin' lava
We spent our first two nights at Ka'awa Loa Plantation, about 1,200 feet up, with a great view of Kealakekua Bay and roughly 50 miles of southern shoreline. Nestled into lush hillside vegetation, the small coffee and fruit plantation had a colonial feel, despite the outdoor hot tub and steam room with a view. There are also two outdoor lava rock showers, festooned with tropical plants. Best of all, co-owner Michael Martinage's superior breakfast-cooking skills provided the most delicious meals we had all week.
Well fed, we began exploring an island seeped in history, due to the dominance of island-creating volcanoes and constant blending of Hawaiian mythology and science.
Mauna Loa is the world's largest mountain by volume, and the incredible, steam-belching Kilauea anchors Hawaii Volcanoes National Park. Lush rain forest ends at the barren, moon-like landscape of the Kilauea Caldera and its surrounding steam vents. The hiking is tremendous, with sweeping views of the surrounding landscape and optional descents into lava tubes (do the free guided tour into the unlit section of the Thurston tube, which requires flashlights and some nerve). The Jagger Museum sits next to the U.S. Geographical Station monitoring the volcano, providing excellent historical context to the steaming crater outside.
Judging by the lack of tourists, Lava Tree State Park is one of the island's best-kept secrets. Taking a KapohoKine Adventures tour, we ventured on a short but gorgeous walk featuring trees covered by lava from a 1790 eruption that stand among giant ferns and massive newer trees. In driving but warm rain, and armed with flashlights, we trekked about a mile onto an old lava flow. The trail ended 500 yards from the crashing surf's standoff with a relentless flow of fiery red lava. Even at a distance, this was a spectacular sight, although we wished we had brought binoculars.
Nature Part II
The schedule didn't allow for more time in laid-back Hilo, although we did spend an hour at the Pacific Tsunami Museum. Hilo has been partially destroyed by tsunamis twice since World War II, the history of which the museum covers thoroughly.
Hilo is also home to the relatively new Imiloa Astronomy Center, which merges science and Hawaiian mythology in its exhibits and first-rate planetarium shows.
After stopping at Hawaii's tallest waterfall, the beautiful Akaka Falls, we drove around the northern tip to the west side and the newly renovated Waikoloa Beach Marriott Resort & Spa. The resort sits on a massive lava flow with the surrounding desert-like landscape reminiscent of Palm Springs or Arizona. The pool area is massive, with a small beach beyond that perfectly frames the sunset.
This served as our jumping-off point to a Kohala Waterfalls Adventure offered by Hawaii Forest & Trail. The seven-hour trip into northern waterfall country took a major bite out of the day but was rescued by tour guide Bob Fewell. He kept us entertained with good humor and an encyclopedia-like knowledge of Hawaii. On a relatively easy loop hike through the forest, we saw almost a dozen small to good sized waterfalls, even stopping to swim in one (I washed my hair with a fruit that Fewell said was a main ingredient in expensive shampoo).
Grand finale
We were impressed enough to try another Hawaii Forest & Trail trip, this one the Mauna Kea Summit and Stars Adventure. If you're going to drop good money on a trip ($185 per person for the summit trip versus $169 for the waterfalls), this is the clear victor. It was easily the best outing of the week.
We journeyed by van to the 13,796-foot peak of Mauna Kea, with its handful of giant international telescopes, to see a spectacular sunset. The road was bumpy and the peak was chilly, but no one cared.
As night fell, we drove back down to the visitors center, where guide Nate Clark set up a telescope in what is considered one of the best star-viewing site on earth (seeing Jupiter's stripes and moons was incredible). For city people, this may be the only time you can see the Milky Way run from horizon to horizon. The vastness was overwhelming.
Again, we felt Mother Nature's presence on the Big Island. Little did we know, we had saved the best for last.
# Where to stay: Ka"awa Loa Plantation, Kealakekua; 808-323-2686; www.kaawaloaplantation.com. This small bed-and-breakfast has great service and views. Rates from $115 a night.
# Hilo Hawaiian Hotel, 71 Banyan Dr., Hilo; 808-935-9361; www.castleresorts.com. Although a bit behind on amenities and food, the hotel is in a great location and has great views of Hilo Bay. Rates from $110.
# Waikoloa Beach Marriott Resort & Spa, 69-275 Waikoloa Beach Dr., Waikoloa; 808-886-6789; www.marriott.com. The newly renovated hotel is first class in all areas. Rates from $265.
# Where to eat: Kona Brewing Company, 75-5629 Kuakini Hwy., Kailua Kona; 808-334-27-39; www.konabrewingco.com. Just a few miles from the Kona Airport, it excels at both homemade brews and food.
# Bongo Bens, 75-5819 Alii Dr., Kailua Kona; 808-329-9203; www.bongobens.com. You can watch the sun set to live music while indulging on very good food.
# Volcano House, Hawaii Volcanoes National Park; 808-967-7321; www.volcanohousehotel.com. The view of the crater makes up for the average buffet food.
# Hilo Bay Cafe, 315 Makaala St., Hilo; 808-935-4939; www.hilobaycafe.com. The seafood is very good but pricier than advertised.
# Cafe Pesto, Kamehameha Avenue, Hilo; 808-969-6640; www.cafepesto.com. It has a good reputation for ethnically diverse Island cuisine.
# Imiloa Sky Garden Restaurant, Imiloa Astronomy Center, Hilo; 808-969-9753. The cafe was surprisingly good, one of the best meals on the trip, with a diverse menu of standard American fare, seafood and a mostly Korean buffet.
# What to do: Sea Quest in Kona is a fantastic boat expedition company offering snorkel tours, rafting and more. Tours from $56 (excluding taxes). 808-329-7238; www.seaquesthawaii.com.
# Punalu"u Black Sand Beach and Place of Refuge at Honaunau are ideal for observing sea turtles.
# Hawaii Volcanoes National Park is a must see with two of the world"s most active volcanoes; cost $10 per vehicle and $5 per individual for seven days. 808-985-6000; www.nps.gov/havo/index.htm.
# KapohoKine Adventures in Pepeekeo turns viewing lava flows into an inclusive event with hiking, helicopter tours, dinner and a trip to Lava Trees State Park. 866-965-9552; www.kapohokine.com.
# Tsunami Museum at 130 Kamehameha Ave. in Hilo is surprisingly good; cost $8 general, $7 seniors; $4 children ages 6-17.808-935-0926; www.tsunami.org.
# Hawaii Forest & Trail in Kailua Kona offers waterfall tours and the incredible Mauna Kea Summit and Stars Adventure. That tour takes visitors up the 13,796-foot mountain to stargaze. Many countries have large observatories here. The tour costs $185 (excluding taxes). 800-464-1993; www.hawaii-forest.com.
# More info: Big Island Visitors Bureau "” 808-961-5797; www.bigisland.org.
More Photos
See a slide show of pictures from the Big Island at www.ContraCostaTimes.com/Travel. or www.InsideBayArea.com/Travel.
Poipu is sure thing for Hawaiian vacation
Posted: 09/25/2009 12:00:00 PM PDT
Poipu is postcard perfect Hawaii, guaranteed. Or as close to it as you can get in the real world. The resort strip on the southern end of Kauai is an as-advertised version of an island vacation — endless sun, great beaches, good food, maybe some golf or snorkeling. Days filled with activity or idleness, nights of romance or just a sound sleep to the soundtrack of crashing waves.
Sure, it's a little safe. Hanalei, to the north, is more lush and beautiful — but it can rain a lot. Waimea, to the west, is more authentic and uncrowded — but a bit uncharted and scruffy. The Coconut Coast to the east has better prices and more to do, but is often hectic and crowded. Poipu has that Goldilocks factor
going for it — not too much of one thing or another. Just right. When I am traveling on the company dime, I can afford to be adventurous. I can book a cottage on the North Shore and get five days of rain or a too-funky cinderblock motel on a windswept portion of the island.
But when readers are planning their own first trip to the Garden Island — using their own real (and scarce) coin and time — I hedge my bets. I might extol the wonders of North, West and East, but in the end I settle on aiming them at the almost always sure thing — Poipu. It doesn't disappoint. It may not have the highs of my favorite spots around the island, but is has fewer lows. If the traveler falls in love, as I have, with Kauai, there
Splurge for stay
Yes, Poipu can all seem a little sterile. Beyond the copper and green luxury of the uproariously expensive Hyatt Regency, it's pretty much a sea of conventional hotels and condo resorts where the sand and surf is nice, with a few bed-and-breakfasts on rocky shorefronts off toward Spouting Horn.
But when you have a family of six, a two-bedroom condo with kitchen that sits near a kid-friendly beach sounds pretty good. If you have a little extra cash stashed away, splurge on the Hyatt. This is one of my favorite hotels in the islands. Its low-slung Arts & Crafts architecture fits snugly into a hillside. There are parrots in the lobby and hula shows at night. It has a great spa, fine dining and golf (the resort's Poipu Bay course is the former home of the PGA Grand Slam of Golf).
For me, the dealmaker is the pool. It's different from the water-park atmosphere of the Westin Maui and Hilton Waikoloa Village on the Big Island or acres of water at the Marriott Kauai and Princeville Resort in Kauai or smaller jewel-like pools at the Halekulani in Waikiki and the Hotel Hana-Maui.
Guests can splash in a 5-acre saltwater lagoon or a couple of freshwater pools. But what gets the Grand Hyatt on my list is the wandering man-made river that flows from the hotel's terraced gardens down to a small pool next to the saltwater lagoon. Along the way are lots of inlets and grottoes for a watery version of hide and seek. On the downside, the channel is about 4 feet deep and covers a lot of territory, so keep an eye on the youngest of your swimmers.
Best beach
Otherwise, I head for the condo hotels nearest to Poipu Beach. Kauai is making great noise this year about Hanalei Bay, on the north side of the island, being named Best Beach in the U.S. by a Florida oceanography professor who goes by the name of Dr. Beach. The secret is Hanalei isn't even the top beach on Kauai, according to Dr. Beach. The professor gives this annual award and then bars the winning sand strand from a repeat appearance in the contest. Poipu Beach won in 2001 — seven beaches (including one in North Carolina) before Hanalei Bay.
Facing the ocean, to the left, is a small beach with good body surfing. But most people head to the right, to the lagoonlike baby beach where a rock breakwater stops the waves, leaving a sandy-bottom beach that is no more than two to three feet deep. It's where many locals from around the island bring their littlest ones for that first exposure to the ocean, and lots of first-time snorkelers are around, too. On the other side of the breakwater is a choppy small bay where the more experienced snorkelers go out. Meal time
Poipu has all the great places to eat — including one of the award-winning outposts of Roy's, the gourmet Pacific Rim fusion foodie haven. But just when you think your wallet is about to break under the strain, there is the road to Koloa Town. Unlike so many resorts on the island, there is a real town with real-people prices just a short drive from Poipu.
After absorbing a few $25 resort breakfasts, I find myself driving daily to Koloa to stock up on cheap grub. If you have a condo with a kitchen, it's the place to go to pack your pantry. I usually grab some decent take-away sushi and a bag of Kauai ground coffee from Big Save supermarket. Some ribs and Chinese noodles from TomKat, Macadamia Nut ice cream and an espresso from Lappert's. By the time I get back with my stash — much less than a room service meal — my only worry is that in the time I have been gone the family has fallen asleep after a day in the sun and surf. My favorite Poipu spot is Brennecke's Beach Broiler, with a second-floor dining area that allows ocean breezes to waft in as you enjoy fresh fish or a juicy hamburger. It's also a great spot for that Mai Tai, Rum Punch or other sundowner cocktail.
Exploring past
While wandering Koloa, check out the town's History Center, set off behind the shopping district. It shows that life wasn't always easy and fun in the area. Workers brought over from Japan toiled in the sugar cane fields, then spent the evenings in their communal bathhouses soaking away the aches and pains of field work. They were part of an immigrant workforce that also came from the Philippines and China, as well as foremen often hired from Germany.
Evidence of the workers' impact on the island can be found at the Jodo Mission, a Buddhist temple built in 1910. The workers would probably feel at home among the ramshackle buildings of the town, although the tourist businesses today selling swimwear, gourmet coffee and dolphin sculptures would be alien If you have a car, make the drive down to Spouting Horn, where waves crash through a blowhole making a whistling water spout. It's especially active in the more turbulent summer months when the southern swells are largest.
There is usually a large collection of tented curios shops where you can get Red Dirt T-shirts or, my favorite, shark's tooth necklaces. What better souvenir for a postcard-perfect Hawaiian vacation?
Seeing Kauai's many sights - one day trip at a time
By Christine Klinger
Cox News Service
It may be called the Garden Island, but Kauai is as full of adventure, art and history as it is beautiful flora.
One way to take on the island is to travel around its perimeter, according to your interests, staying at a new place every few nights. Or you can choose, as we did, to plant yourself in a centrally located home base, such as Kapaa on the east coast, then take day trips from there. Here are some recommendations:
NORTHERN DAY TRIPS
Kilauea Point National
Wildlife Refuge
This protected, 200-acre lookout is a sanctuary to several types of migratory birds, such as the golden plover, the Laysan albatross, frigates and Hawaii's state bird, the endangered Nene goose. Monk seals, dolphins and humpback whales also can be spotted from there. Volunteers lead nature hikes from the visitor center.
Details: Go to www.kauai-hawaii.com and click on "activities and recreation" or "north shore" for destinations. The site is great for planning this and any other part of your island plan.
Na Aina Kai Tropical
Botanical Gardens
Na Aina Kai ("Lands by the sea" in Hawaiian) is 240 acres of ever-changing botanical gardens. Na Aina Kai is the lifelong creation of founders Joyce and Ed Doty and is formed from their private estate. They built 13 gardens, among them desert, orchid, lagoon, fern and tree. These, along with a Poinciana Maze,
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Details: Both walking and riding tours are offered. Reservations recommended but not required; Na Aina Kai is closed on weekends and holidays. www.naainakai.org.
SOUTHERN DAY TRIPS
Fern Grotto and
Opaekaa Falls
A few miles south of Kapaa, just inland from the central east coast, is the magical Fern Grotto. In this same area, you will see the "twin waterfalls" of Opaekaa, the location for TV's "Fantasy Island."
And on the banks of the Wailua River is a reconstructed primitive Hawaiian village, which sits on what was once a Hawaiian settlement. The village has a dozen thatched buildings with informational signage, giving you an idea of how native Hawaiians lived hundreds of years ago.
Details: The village tour is free; there is a fee for visiting the Fern Garden, as it is somewhat remote and requires a boat tour up the river (or a self-guided canoe trip). The boat tour is by Smith Family Gardens, www.smithskauai .com., which also host luaus.
Kauai Museum in Lihue
There are two parts to this museum - a permanent collection of historic displays, including ancient artifacts, turn-of-the-century photographs and contemporary Hawaiian art in the beautiful 1920s-era Wilcox Building, and exhibits of the geological, archaeological and cultural history of Hawaii in the adjacent, 1960s-era Rice Building.
Details: Get a glimpse at the exhibits at www.kauaimuseum.org.
Hanapepe
Hanapepe, farther south, is a charming little town known for its contemporary art galleries. Blues musician Taj Mahal loves Hanapepe; he has a home there and even wrote an album titled "Hanapepe Dream."
My favorite galleries are right across the street from each other. One is owned by an Ecuadorian transplant named Jorge, whose self-named gallery is Giorgio's - "because I like how it sounds!" he said. Giorgio (Italian for Jorge, or George) is a painter who showed his work, his brother's, another painter he knows and a clay sculptor. The artwork is vivid, local scenes - some traditional, some whimsical - all wonderful. See a preview at www.giorgiosart.com.
Another gallery I love is Timespace Gallery. The owner is a charming painter from Mexico named Antonio Arellanes who uses Mylar in his work. (His paintings glow.) Some are abstracts, some collage. Fantastic. Other artists in his gallery (all painters) are also amazing: a Polish woman living in Southern California, a Dutch woman living in Kauai, a Spaniard who builds up his paintings with some sort of texture that looks like lava. Great stuff. Check out a preview at www.timespaceintl.com.
Poipu Beach
Snorkeling at Poipu Beach is worth the effort. The air and water are clear, even if the waves are rough with a strong undercurrent, making it tricky to swim and trickier still to stand up on the rocks with flippers. There were fantastically colorful fish all around and one I didn't care to see - a sea snake.
Kilohana Plantation
Located just outside Lihue, Kilohana is a beautifully restored, 36-acre sugar plantation. A living museum, this place gives a glimpse of what plantation life was like in Hawaii in the 1930s. There are many things to do there: dine in the lovely indoor/outdoor restaurant, relax in the lodge-like great room, stroll the gorgeous grounds, take a carriage ride, meander in the galleries and gift shops, or visit a working clay studio and gallery.
Details: Plantation info, www.kilohanakauai.com. Clayworks, www.clayworksatkilohana.com.
INLAND
Waimea Canyon
Heading back up the coast, take a side trip inland up the long and winding road to Waimea Canyon. Fantastic views (which you'll also see from a helicopter tour). Dubbed by Mark Twain as the "Grand Canyon of the Pacific," Waimea Canyon is 10 miles long, one mile wide and 3,600 feet deep. It was created from layers of flowing lava; the colors vary as clouds moved in and out.
Details: If you want to take a tour, go to www.alohatopten.com., click on Kauai, then sightseeing tours. These tours depart from major hotels in Wailua, Poipu and Lihue. Or you can drive to the area yourself from any of these towns.
Spouting Horn
Be sure to see the famous Spouting Horn, a lava tube which forces spumes of salty surf up to 50 feet in the air, causing strange groaning sounds.
Many Hawaiian legends surround this phenomenon. My favorite is one in which the sound is caused by the sobbing of a giant sea lizard. Upon learning that his sister had died, he was blinded with tears and accidentally swam into the hole and was trapped forever.
Details: Spouting Horn is off Lawai Road, which runs west from the south end of Poipu Road (part of Route 520).
Discovering the gems of the Big Island's west coast
Posted: 04/23/2007 12:16:04 PM PDT
Updated: 07/20/2007 10:33:07 AM PDT
KAILUA-KONA, Hawaii – Sun-washed days and gentle breezes. Calm waters crowded with tropical fish, spinner dolphins and humpback whales on winter vacation. Magnificent sunsets framed by coconut palms.
There is a lot to like about Hawaii's Kona Coast, which enjoys this friendly climate because it shelters in the lee of the Mauna Loa and Hualalai volcanos on the west side of the Big Island. But unfortunately – and not surprisingly – there are a lot of people doing the liking these days.
This is a standard stop for Hawaii's burgeoning cruise industry, such that the town of Kailua-Kona, once an unpretentious little burg of rich history and slightly scruffy charm, has descended into cruise-port blight, clogged with souvenir stands selling cheap shell jewelry, T-shirts and Kona coffee gift packs. Up the mountain slope, residential housing is sprouting at an astonishing rate. And the hotels and vacation-rental condos along the water's edge – long a value-priced alternative to the exclusive Kohala Coast resorts to the north – enjoy robust occupancy rates despite the fact that many of them aren't exactly aging gracefully.
Even the 6.7 earthquake that rolled through Kona last Oct. 15,
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But none of this should be surprising, for Kona has been beguiling visitors for ages. As far back as 1866, Mark Twain declared it "a land where you may fold your tired hands and slumber your lives peacefully away," and added, "A week there ought to cure the saddest of you all."
Today's visitor, however, must be judicious in seeking out Kona's gems, leaving the unwary hordes to endure the traffic jams of Alii Drive, prowl the tacky tourist shops, and crowd onto such overrun beaches as Kahaluu and Magic Sands.
Here are the best offerings of the Kona Coast:
An ancient refuge
Warfare was savage in ancient Hawaii, in that it was commonplace for a victor to exterminate the entire losing side. But some 500 years ago, a burial ground for chiefs was established in a walled compound on the coast, and a prohibition was placed on the shedding of blood within its sanctified confines.
The local populace didn't miss the significance of this, and Puuhonua o Honaunau became a refuge for anyone with a death sentence hanging over his head. All a person had to do was get inside that enclosure – though this was no easy feat.
Today the site is a national historical park, with an imposing Great Wall that dates to about 1550 and an adjacent complex of reconstructed royal buildings. As we walked along the periphery of the refuge, we concluded that a fugitive's best bet was to swim in from the ocean or dash around its extreme edge. The wall is 8 to 10 feet tall and perhaps 17 feet thick, and would present a formidable obstacle with warriors in hot pursuit.
The wall was constructed of lava boulders without the aid of mortar, and it suffered a bit in the October earthquake – but only because an opening in the wall was created for visitors some years ago.
"On both sides of that walkway, portions of the rock have loosened up and it's unstable right now," said Terry Reveira, chief of interpretation. "The base rock pulled away, and a whole section could fall. We're in the process of trying to get that looked at by experts and see what it will take to stabilize it."
In the meantime, visitors can walk to the northern extremity of the wall, where the Hale o Keawe (circa 1650) stands, and enter the enclosure as desperate Hawaiians once did – though in much less haste.
While strolling the grounds, be sure to look for Hawaiian green sea turtles in the cove that was the chiefs' canoe landing (they camouflage with the boulders) and also watch for saffron finches – with feathers of brilliant yellow and green – in the shrubbery of the parking lot.
Today's visitors aren't allowed to eat anything within the Place of Refuge, but a wonderful picnic ground can be reached on a short dirt road to the south. Few people venture here, resulting in a peaceful setting of picnic tables in the sand beneath shady palms, and tidepools on a vast lava plain. (This is also a great spot to watch the sun set.) A historic trail can be hiked along the coast to the south.
Artist colony
Holualoa, a quaint little village just up the mountain slope from Kailua-Kona, was settled in the 19th century by immigrant farmers from Japan, China, Portugal and America. They were attracted to its rich volcanic soil and a climate that was hospitable to coffee, citrus fruit, sugar cane and the raising of livestock.
Today, buildings that were homes and businesses in the early 1900s are studios and galleries for a community of artists. The structures are often as intriguing as the art itself, with bold paint jobs, corrugated tin roofs, well-scuffed wooden floors and sliding windows that overlook the ocean far below.
"This was the home of a Japanese dentist in the '20s," said Sunny Pauole as she painted a modern oil in her Pauole gallery. The walls held paintings in vivid colors of island scenes and flowers, as well as koa wood canoe paddles polished to a high gleam.
The Holualoa Ukulele Gallery, meanwhile, is housed in the former post office – it still has weathered post office boxes on the exterior wall. Owner Sam Rosen and other local craftsmen make the instruments on display here, and he'll also teach you how to strum a few chords.
"It's a happy instrument. There are no sad songs on a ukulele," Rosen said, noting that jam sessions convene here every Wednesday evening if anyone wants to stop by to play or just listen.
Ululani gallery used to be Ito Garage in the 1930s. In that unlikely setting are displayed whimsical paintings of fish and barnyard animals, all beautifully framed. Another gallery, Hawaii Colors, shows impressionistic island scenes painted by Darrell Hill – plantation cottages, beach landscapes, portraits.
But the finest gallery in town is directly behind that old post office. Dovetail exhibits exquisite wood furniture, ceramic pots, paintings, jewelry and sculpture, the furniture and ceramics by owner Gerald Ben, other works by local artists.
For sustenance on a visit here, stop by the Holuakoa Cafe, a locals hangout with superb coffee brewed from local beans and some tasty breakfast and lunch selections.
Taking the plunge
A fascinating underwater garden of coral and rainbow-hued marine life lies just off many of Hawaii's coasts, but getting tossed about in ocean currents or banging the shins in the shore break can be intimidating to people who aren't particularly strong swimmers.
The beach at Honaunau, just south of famed Kealakekua Bay – where British Capt. James Cook was killed by natives in 1779 – solves both concerns. It isn't really a beach, more of a black-lava shelf (a sunbathing griddle for some). But at one spot along its edge there are two natural stone steps down into the water, which makes getting in and out a snap. Further, the water is usually placid here, as well as warm and relatively shallow.
Welcome to the aquarium. There are many varieties of tropical fish here, but the darling of this cove is the bright-yellow tang, which swims in schools. Because of the mild ocean conditions and abundance of fish, this might be one of the best shore diving spots in Hawaii.
Another way to get a glimpse of this island's underwater wonderland is to take a commercial snorkeling excursion.
One morning we set out on Fair Wind's 55-foot power catamaran, the Hula Kai, which employs hydrofoil technology to blunt the roughness of the ocean and get to dive sites a little quicker than conventional snorkel boats. It glided out of Keauhou Bay and headed to two prime coves to the south, Alahaka and Palikoholo.
Flitting among the ochre-colored florets of coral were more schools of yellow tang, as well as Moorish idols, a fish with bands of black, white and gold and a trailing dorsal streamer. Another highlight was the black triggerfish, with its feathery fins and neon-purple piping.
Guides provide a layer of security on a commercial snorkel outing – because they double as lifeguards. When an older woman began to founder in the chop a good distance from the boat, a crewman grabbed a float, plunged into the water and reached her in about four powerful strokes.
Life on board this excursion is a bit softer than the standard tour.
Breakfast included frittatas cooked in muffin cups, island fruit and coffee grown on the Kona farm of Fair Wind's owners. After the second and final snorkel spot, a gas grill was fired up in the stern, and flames rose to lap at half-pound Angus hamburgers, strips of teriyaki chicken and veggie burgers. Beer and wine were available for purchase.
On the way back, deck umbrellas were unfurled for shade and the sound system played such soothing tunes as "Moonglow" and the late Bruddah Iz's "Over the Rainbow."
"The locations we go to are for snorkel and dive enthusiasts," said boat captain Kurt Bell. "There's a little more swimming involved, a little more adventure. When conditions are right, we'll go into a lava tube and an underwater arch." (Alas, it was too rough for that on our day.)
Island worship
When missionaries arrived in Hawaii in the early 19th century, they built their churches with the most convenient materials at hand – lava rocks, mortar made with crushed coral, beams fashioned from ohia wood, pews crafted out of the now-precious koa. The churches have held up well over the years; some suffered cracks in the October earthquake but remain stable and open, with reinforcement work planned.
Few visitors fail to spot the tiny St. Peter's Church at water's edge just south of Kailua-Kona, but three other historic churches are also worthy of a visit:
– Mokuaikaua Church. In the heart of Kailua-Kona, this is where the first Christian services were held in the Hawaiian islands when missionaries arrived from Boston in 1820. The current building, constructed 17 years later, is supported by 50-foot ohia pillars.
This is the real-life church on which a segment of James Michener's "Hawaii" novel was based, and by perusing the plaques in the sanctuary and a small museum in the rear, you can match up the real-life names with the fictional characters of the story.
(Across the street from the church, the Hulihee Palace, a former governor's residence built in 1838, fared much less well in the quake. It suffered severe damage and has been closed indefinitely for restoration work, according to docent Kahea Beckley.)
– St. Benedict Catholic Church in South Kona is more commonly called the Painted Church. At the turn of the 20th century, Father John Berchmans Velge of Belgium painted elaborate biblical scenes on the interior walls of the small church. The ceiling was painted to resemble sky, while the tops of support posts sprout palm fronds.
– Kahikolu Congregational Church was built in 1824 on the Kealakekua peninsula, but was later moved up the mountainside. It was closed on the weekday we visited, but a caretaker graciously let us inside to see the pews made of finely polished koa. Today's artisans pay as much as $30 a board foot for that wood.
IF YOU GO
PUUHONUA O HONAUNAU: The national historical park is open daily, year round, from 7 a.m. to 8 p.m. Its visitor center is open daily from 8 a.m. to 5 p.m. Entrance fee is $5 per vehicle. Information: www.nps.gov/puho; (808) 328-2288. Tip: This park is right next to the prime snorkel spot of Honaunau, which has only a few parking places. Hang onto your national park receipt, which is good for seven days; you can park your car in the national park lot and easily walk to the snorkel site.
HOLUALOA GALLERIES: Dovetail, (808) 322-4046; Hawaii Colors, (808) 324-1590; Holualoa Ukuklele Gallery, (808) 324-4100; Pauole (808) 989-2180; Ululani, (808) 322-7733.
HULA KAI SNORKEL CRUISE: The morning excursion, which runs from 9:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. and includes breakfast and lunch on board, costs
$149 per person (minimum age is 8 years). Fair Wind also offers a snorkel trip to Kealakekua Bay that is more family oriented, priced at $115 for adults, $69 for ages 4 to 12, $29 for age 3 and under. www.fair-wind; (800) 677-9461.
MISSION CHURCHES: Mokuaikaua Church, 75-5713 Alii Drive, Kailua-Kona; St. Benedict Church, 84-5140 Painted Church Road, Honaunau; Kahikolu Congregational Church, on Napoopoo Road, Napoopoo.
LODGING: The Sheraton Keauhou Bay Resort has replaced the tired, old Kona Surf, and there's no mistaking its best asset: location, on a black lava point on Keauhou Bay's southern lip. The most unfortunate casualty of the transformation was the hotel's saltwater swimming pool, a refreshing plunge that was located on a scenic promontory overlooking ocean and bay. It was said to be a maintenance headache, particularly in winter, and was converted to a vast slab of patio.
The Sheraton now has the requisite resort water park (in another location), with water slide and sandy lagoon. The hotel offers generous kamaaina (local resident) rates – less than half the lowest published rate of $350 per night – and as a result, that pool can get a little raucous on the weekends, when all the cousins and the aunts descend on the place. www.sheratonkeauhou.com; (888) 488-3535, (808) 930-4900. Other lodging options on the Kona Coast include rental condos and coffee country bed-and-breakfast inns.
DINING: Some of our worst dining in Kona was accompanied by an ocean view. Such restaurants (notably Huggo's) are assured a steady stream of tourist business. The establishments tucked away in nondescript shopping centers have to work a little harder to pull people in.
You can't go wrong at O's Bistro, which showcases local ingredients in creative preparations. One pasta dish, for example, is a deconstructed tuna casserole, featuring seasoned, wok-seared strips of fresh ahi tuna, orecchiette shell pasta in a light cream sauce with shiitake mushrooms and scallions, all of it crowned with some thinly sliced and lightly fried onions ($24). There is laudable pricing on the wine list; one tier lists more than a dozen selections, from all over the globe, each priced at $35 a bottle. In the Crossroads Shopping Center. www.osbistro.com; (808) 327-6565.
For exceptional Japanese fare, head to Kenichi Pacific, in the Keauhou Shopping Center. If so inclined, you can readily create a small-plates dinner from appetizers – notably the lobster summer rolls and Dungeness crab cakes – tempura selections and some delectable sushi rolls that are prepared to order. Main courses feature fusion preparations of ono, mahi-mahi, ahi and other local fishes. (808) 322-6400.
INFORMATION: One of the best guidebooks for exploring the Kona Coast (and all of this island) is Ray Riegert's "Hidden Big Island of Hawaii" (Ulysses Press; $13.95). The Hawaii Visitors and Convention Bureau site, www.bigisland.org, lists information on events, golf, arts and other attractions on the island.
Published Feb. 25, 2007
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